Watam Village is the easternmost village in East Sepik Province and is situated at the northwestern end of Broken Water Bay. The Watam people originally came from further east in the lower sections f the Ramu River, where there are still spoken languages closely related to the Watam language. The Watam people migrated from there many generations ago along with the people of Kopar village at the mouth of the Sepik River. They purchased the land they now reside on, with an exchange of Women and Ritual Goods.
The social organization of the village is patrilineal, with the clan membership coming from one’s father. There are 7 clans today and each occupies a land section in the village. Each clan has its own Men’s house, around which ritual life revolves. Rituals involve platforms on which food and other offerings are placed, tallied and then distributed among villagers at important festivities and rituals. Unmarried men still sleep in the men’s houses.
The traditional religion was animistic, involving spirit and ancestor placating, but today all villages are nominally Catholic, although much of traditional ritual and beliefs survive.
The Sepik
The Sepik region is an immense grassland reserve, surrounded by one of the world’s greatest rivers which run 1,126 kilometers from the origins in the mountains to the sea. The people along the river depend heavily on it for transportation water and food.. Their national links with the Sepik River are symbolized in many of the ancient and spiritual rituals, such as the manhood initiation. This requires painful carving of flesh on the backs of young men with razor blades. Patterns are that of a crocodile lying on the banks of the river.
The history of the Sepik region reflects the influence over the years of the missionaries, traders, labor recruiters and administrators. Parts of the Highlands remain untouched just as they were when first discovered in 1933. In fact, some more villages have yet to see a white man.
The Sepik River has long been world famous for the quantity and quality of its wood carvings and for the imposing architecture of its Haus Tambarans – Spirit Houses. Traditionally, art in the Sepik was created in the service of magic, myth and ritual. Spirit houses were lined with shields decorated with the faces of ancestors, mythical being and nature spirits, whose likenesses appear also on masks, suspension hooks for food and on the pillars which supported the great soaring roof of the house. Ritual cannibalism was practiced as a means of protection against the spirit of an enemy killed in battle and for capturing his physical and spiritual powers. Often, the head was not eaten but pained and hung in the doorway of the spirit house as a symbol of prowess and to bar entry to women and the uninitiated.
The Sepik River has no actual river delta and stains the sea brown for up to 50 kilometers. It is said islanders off the coast can draw fresh water straight from the sea. The Sepik is navigable for almost its entire length and winds down through the land resembling a huge, brown coiling serpent.
WATAM VILLAGE - Sunday
Every evening we attend a pre briefing in the Leda Lounge that provides us with an overview of our activities for the next day, along with a detailed briefing on the history, culture and area. Saturday evening was all about Watam Village and what we should expect upon arrival. Including the “Stay behind the Dragon” briefing, I will explain later!
The next morning we all boarded the Zodiacs to travel across to Watam, it was important that we all arrive as one group for the official welcome by the village. As we traveled across we were greeted by two boats full of Watam Villagers singing and drumming and dressed in traditional Ramu dress, they then escorted us around the corner and Watam came into view. A ceremonial arch had been constructed from Sago Palm leaves and we all entered to be welcomed by the village. This began with the singing of the National PNG anthem and the PNG Pledge by the Watam school children; we then gathered behind Justin (Orion Expeditions) and awaited arrival of the Dragon.
The Dragon is actually a long sea serpent type costume that we were required to follow into the village. By doing so we were allowed to view village life that otherwise would have been taboo. In the eyes of the village we were all “men”! This procession was stunning with all 96 guests following the Dragon and being joined by Watam villagers. Children held our hands, adults walked beside us and friends were made immediately.
What a warm, welcoming and utterly open people. My friend Barbara was befriended by a lovely girl who invited us into her home, a traditional sago palm house on stilts.
We spent the morning at Watam wandering through the village, shopping in the market that had been set up by vendors from Watam and surrounding areas. Many of which had arrived by traditional wooden canoes from further up the Sepik river. The array of masks, bags, jewelry and crafts was spectacular.
The village itself is set in a small cove and each of the homes and men’s houses are built of traditional materials, primarily Sago, which is used for walls, ceilings and also as food. The surroundings are a stunning green that is hard to put into words and includes lush banana and sago palms and stunning orchids. PNG is renowned for its orchids.
I must admit that none of us wanted to leave our new friends and the beauty of Watam; however, the Sepik River was our next adventure.
After lunch back on board we headed out once again in the Zodiacs towards the mouth of the Sepik River. The river stains the sea brown for up to 50km, similar to a milk chocolate color. It was also a little choppy and we rode the waves which added to the excitement.
Once inside the mouth of the river we searched for local bird life, including Bromeny Kites, White Sea Eagles, Kingfishers and Bee Eaters. We also had the opportunity to get closer to local farming plots full of banana and sago. The bird life was amazing and we were able to get so close the Bromeny Kite, hence the 50 photographs from every angle…..
We then followed local canoes across the Sepik, which may I say is very fast running, towards Kopar. Local villagers will canoe up the river and then cross above their intended destination, using the Sepik’s current to carry them to their village. Kopar is sizeable village on the banks of the Sepik River. Children ran out to welcome us and played around the Zodiac while the rest of the village waved and smiled.
What I found most amazing is that none of the villagers ask for handouts. Not one guest was pushed for money and there is no haggling for items. You will be given “First Price” and then a “Second Price” usually in the same sentence and it is your call which price you pay. I selected a nice middle ground as “First Price” allows them to make some additional cash while “Second Price” is the cost of making the item.
The social organization of the village is patrilineal, with the clan membership coming from one’s father. There are 7 clans today and each occupies a land section in the village. Each clan has its own Men’s house, around which ritual life revolves. Rituals involve platforms on which food and other offerings are placed, tallied and then distributed among villagers at important festivities and rituals. Unmarried men still sleep in the men’s houses.
The traditional religion was animistic, involving spirit and ancestor placating, but today all villages are nominally Catholic, although much of traditional ritual and beliefs survive.
The Sepik
The Sepik region is an immense grassland reserve, surrounded by one of the world’s greatest rivers which run 1,126 kilometers from the origins in the mountains to the sea. The people along the river depend heavily on it for transportation water and food.. Their national links with the Sepik River are symbolized in many of the ancient and spiritual rituals, such as the manhood initiation. This requires painful carving of flesh on the backs of young men with razor blades. Patterns are that of a crocodile lying on the banks of the river.
The history of the Sepik region reflects the influence over the years of the missionaries, traders, labor recruiters and administrators. Parts of the Highlands remain untouched just as they were when first discovered in 1933. In fact, some more villages have yet to see a white man.
The Sepik River has long been world famous for the quantity and quality of its wood carvings and for the imposing architecture of its Haus Tambarans – Spirit Houses. Traditionally, art in the Sepik was created in the service of magic, myth and ritual. Spirit houses were lined with shields decorated with the faces of ancestors, mythical being and nature spirits, whose likenesses appear also on masks, suspension hooks for food and on the pillars which supported the great soaring roof of the house. Ritual cannibalism was practiced as a means of protection against the spirit of an enemy killed in battle and for capturing his physical and spiritual powers. Often, the head was not eaten but pained and hung in the doorway of the spirit house as a symbol of prowess and to bar entry to women and the uninitiated.
The Sepik River has no actual river delta and stains the sea brown for up to 50 kilometers. It is said islanders off the coast can draw fresh water straight from the sea. The Sepik is navigable for almost its entire length and winds down through the land resembling a huge, brown coiling serpent.
WATAM VILLAGE - Sunday
Every evening we attend a pre briefing in the Leda Lounge that provides us with an overview of our activities for the next day, along with a detailed briefing on the history, culture and area. Saturday evening was all about Watam Village and what we should expect upon arrival. Including the “Stay behind the Dragon” briefing, I will explain later!
The next morning we all boarded the Zodiacs to travel across to Watam, it was important that we all arrive as one group for the official welcome by the village. As we traveled across we were greeted by two boats full of Watam Villagers singing and drumming and dressed in traditional Ramu dress, they then escorted us around the corner and Watam came into view. A ceremonial arch had been constructed from Sago Palm leaves and we all entered to be welcomed by the village. This began with the singing of the National PNG anthem and the PNG Pledge by the Watam school children; we then gathered behind Justin (Orion Expeditions) and awaited arrival of the Dragon.
The Dragon is actually a long sea serpent type costume that we were required to follow into the village. By doing so we were allowed to view village life that otherwise would have been taboo. In the eyes of the village we were all “men”! This procession was stunning with all 96 guests following the Dragon and being joined by Watam villagers. Children held our hands, adults walked beside us and friends were made immediately.
What a warm, welcoming and utterly open people. My friend Barbara was befriended by a lovely girl who invited us into her home, a traditional sago palm house on stilts.
We spent the morning at Watam wandering through the village, shopping in the market that had been set up by vendors from Watam and surrounding areas. Many of which had arrived by traditional wooden canoes from further up the Sepik river. The array of masks, bags, jewelry and crafts was spectacular.
The village itself is set in a small cove and each of the homes and men’s houses are built of traditional materials, primarily Sago, which is used for walls, ceilings and also as food. The surroundings are a stunning green that is hard to put into words and includes lush banana and sago palms and stunning orchids. PNG is renowned for its orchids.
I must admit that none of us wanted to leave our new friends and the beauty of Watam; however, the Sepik River was our next adventure.
After lunch back on board we headed out once again in the Zodiacs towards the mouth of the Sepik River. The river stains the sea brown for up to 50km, similar to a milk chocolate color. It was also a little choppy and we rode the waves which added to the excitement.
Once inside the mouth of the river we searched for local bird life, including Bromeny Kites, White Sea Eagles, Kingfishers and Bee Eaters. We also had the opportunity to get closer to local farming plots full of banana and sago. The bird life was amazing and we were able to get so close the Bromeny Kite, hence the 50 photographs from every angle…..
We then followed local canoes across the Sepik, which may I say is very fast running, towards Kopar. Local villagers will canoe up the river and then cross above their intended destination, using the Sepik’s current to carry them to their village. Kopar is sizeable village on the banks of the Sepik River. Children ran out to welcome us and played around the Zodiac while the rest of the village waved and smiled.
What I found most amazing is that none of the villagers ask for handouts. Not one guest was pushed for money and there is no haggling for items. You will be given “First Price” and then a “Second Price” usually in the same sentence and it is your call which price you pay. I selected a nice middle ground as “First Price” allows them to make some additional cash while “Second Price” is the cost of making the item.
No comments:
Post a Comment